Yakitori. The term covers a multitude of chicken possibilities, ranging from smoky yatai and stand-up nomiya under the proverbial tracks all the way to plush establishments for Ginza madames where every bird on the menu is reared in free-range bliss, cooked over premium charcoal and washed down with Burgundy sploshed into oversized globes.

Bincho occupies a comfortable niche in the upper middle ground of this spectrum. It does not pretend to offer an exclusive gourmet experience, and yet it invests heavily in the old-fashioned virtues: a serene setting, victuals of fine quality and gracious attention to the minutiae of service. Indeed, it is well on its way to becoming a Tokyo institution.

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