With yet another Thanksgiving, Hanuka, Christmas and so forth soon to come, the question is, should you gorge away at the big dinner or discreetly desist a bit to "make sure," as some say, "that there's still some room left for dessert"?

My advice: Overindulge if you must (it doesn't happen every day, after all), but instead of pie, tart, cake, mousse or whatever, end the feast with a glass of good dessert wine. It's delightful, it's really good, and your choice of good ones is fairly wide.

Dessert wines are also referred to as sweet wines and, among the British, as pudding wines, since in Britain they are traditionally enjoyed after a meal. Conversely, in France they may be drunk as aperitifs before a meal, well chilled.