The cold chill of mountain air hits me as I step off the bus and make my way through the imposing temple gates of Eko-in on Mount Koya.
It's 10 a.m. and the sun is still hiding behind clouds and mist as I poke my head through the temple's reception area, where two monks are seated cross-legged on the ground, filling out paperwork at a knee-high table.
"Ahh, you must be here to see Nobu," one says upon noticing me. "He will be with you soon. In the meantime, please have a seat."