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The sky was an intense indigo, the sun as hot as a branding iron on the afternoon of the interview with Keith Gordon, drummer and co-composer of the band Ryukyu Underground.

Gordon’s village of Kunigami, in the northern region of Motobu on Okinawa’s main island, is accessed from a lane off the coastal road. Arriving at Gordon’s home by scooter, something streaks across the road, practically grazing the front wheel of the vehicle, before vanishing into subtropical undergrowth.

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