When you drop from the crest of a vertical wall of water teetering on a narrow piece of fiberglass, the human instinct for survival takes over and there's only primal fear and wild excitement in your heart. The ocean's roar engulfs you, though all seems strangely silent; time freezes, and the gods look down and smile on you.
An instant later, it's ecstasy no more. Underestimating the power of the wave, misjudging its height and being thrown headlong into wild white darkness, getting sucked down and spun like a rag in a washing machine on fast cycle, wondering which way is up and running short of breath, you wonder if you will see the light of another day. Then suddenly you're forced to the surface, you suck in life-giving air . . . and climb back on your board to paddle out in search of the next wave.
Such is the nature of one of the fastest growing sports in Japan.