Robbie Swinnerton - The Japan Times

February 12, 2025

Today's print edition

Subscribe for more access

Meta

Twitter

Robbie Swinnerton

Robbie Swinnerton has been living, eating and writing about food in Tokyo for over 30 years. His column, Tokyo Food File, has run in The Japan Times since 1998.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jul 14, 2002

Keep your cool in the big heat

Every food has its season, and every season its food -- and the arrival of the big heat means that, more than ever, this is the time of year for noodles.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jul 7, 2002

Hisio: The pleasure zone is your oyster

Now that the monthlong soccer carnival has samba'd off stage, it's safe to venture back into the heartland of Roppongi again. This is highly welcome, as there are several places that we've been looking forward to trying out -- and top of the list is Hisio, with its newly opened oyster bar.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jun 30, 2002

Even a sultan would approve

No matter their relative prowess on the soccer field, there can be no disputing which of the nations that reached the semifinal of the World Cup would deserve to be champions, were the title decided on culinary merit alone. With all respect to the gastronomy of Germany, Brazil and South Korea, none can...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jun 16, 2002

Nodaiwa: Why put off eel you can eat today?

Who says you have to wait till the dog days of midsummer to enjoy unagi? Ignore the media hype: There are no rules that say when you should (or should not) eat your eel. But if you are only going to dine on unagi once a year, then make it somewhere special. And you will not find anywhere in Tokyo that...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jun 9, 2002

Welcome to the great out-of-doors

Every year around this time we get the same plaintive inquiries: "Isn't there anywhere half decent in this city where you can eat outdoors?" And, as always, the answer is "yes -- and no."

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jun 2, 2002

The slow train to France

To reach AOC Yoyogi entails an undemanding stroll down a narrow shotengai shopping street in one of those quiet, unexceptional parts of Tokyo you would never have recourse to visit in the normal run of affairs. It's only minutes away from the JR station, but far enough that you feel well removed from...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

May 26, 2002

Enough to make Spanish eyes smile

In case you hadn't noticed, Spanish food is big right now -- or at least that's what the vernacular magazines would have us believe. This, of course, is not the first time it's been touted as the next big thing. But somehow a critical mass of popularity was never achieved, and Spain's culinary profile...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

May 19, 2002

A marriage guaranteed to last

Designer dining: It's a minefield in this city. In the past few months, we've sat ourselves down in too many places where the surroundings are flashy but the food is at best ordinary, too often misguided fusion dabblings, and at worst close to inedible. We haven't seen such a major outbreak of style...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

May 12, 2002

Natural quality, Acquavino style

You don't get to become a successful restaurateur without knowing exactly what it is that people want. As the man behind the Acquapazza and Mangia Pesce stable of ristoranti, chef Yoshimi Hidaka helped to define the new high-end Italian cucina of the cash-flush 1990s. Now he shows he is equally in tune...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

May 5, 2002

Straight from Tsukiji to Harajuku

What's the difference between an izakaya and a restaurant? Often very little, if the izakaya in question serves good food and comports itself with a degree of sophistication. Perhaps the best yardstick is the noise level. The louder the conversation and more voluble the pleasure, the less likely a place...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 28, 2002

Toriyoshi: Simplest of pleasures on a stick

What could be more straightforward than yakitori? All that's required is to chop up some chicken into bite-size chunks, skewer and hoist them over a grill, then season to taste and eat. Simple? Yes. Easy to do well? Obviously not, or there would be far more places of the caliber of Toriyoshi.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 14, 2002

Kappo R: And on the seventh day, we dined

Sunday evenings are always the most difficult time for dining out, especially if it's full-fledged Japanese cuisine you're after. With the markets closed and the streets deserted, choices are always limited, even in the most up-market parts of town.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 7, 2002

Harmonie: Harmonizing great food in the key of fine wine

Keen-eyed Nishi Azabu-watchers will have noted the arrival of a whole slew of new restaurants in recent months. The influx has been especially noticeable on the southwest quadrant of the crossing known to old-timers as Kasumicho Crossing and to foreign punsters as Hobson's Choice.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mar 31, 2002

Manuel: Iberian inspirations

Portuguese cuisine -- much like Belgian fashion and Canadian rock music -- has an identity problem. Overlooked and underrated by the world at large, it inevitably suffers by comparison with the better-known output of its far larger neighbor, Spain.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mar 24, 2002

Helmsdale: A spot of haggis and ale, lads?

Helmsdale is not so much a pub as a shrine to the "water of life," known to the ancient Gaelic peoples as uisge beatha and to their modern-day descendants as whisky. Almost every inch of space is devoted to it, from the groaning shelves of classic single malts arrayed behind the counter to the empty...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mar 17, 2002

Umaya: Dining in the presence of greatness

When the man behind a major new restaurant is a kabuki actor, it's inevitable that there's going to be strong public interest. When that actor happens to be Ichikawa Ennosuke -- the flamboyant superstar of his self-styled "super kabuki" -- you can expect the buzz to be massive.

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mar 10, 2002

Il Pentito: Anyway you slice, it's real Roma

The first thing you see when you walk through the door of Il Pentito is the oven. It's a monolithic, red-brick structure, like a relic from some Industrial Revolution foundry. A massive, dominating presence, it seems to take up half the premises, an impression reinforced by the way the tables are crammed...

Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mar 3, 2002

Substance with style on the side

Any fashion boutique worth its salt has a cafe attached these days. Offering cappuccinos and cheesecake is, after all, a good way to draw reluctant window-shoppers through the doors. Too often, though, style wins out over substance. The requisite ambience is installed along with the espresso machine,...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Feb 17, 2002

Shonzui: Right at home with fruits of the vine

We finally made it to Shonzui the other day. Not that it's particularly hard to find, it's just that it has taken us far too long to get around to visiting this friendly little wine bar down in Roppongi.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Feb 10, 2002

Hantei: Kushi-age on a higher plane

There are still people who believe the idea of a classy kushi-age is a downright contradiction in terms. After all, they reason, it's a cross between two basic, blue-collar staples: yakitori and tonkatsu. How could such a mongrel hybrid, better suited to greasy neighborhood nomiya, ever be worthy of...

One of the many entrances to the Kabukicho neighborhood in Tokyo’s Shinjuku Ward.

Kabukicho: Tokyo’s ‘stadium of desire’

Eme-Ima Kitchen is one of over 10,000 kodomo shokudō in Japan. A term first used in 2012 to describe makeshift eateries offering free or cheap meals to disadvantaged kids, it now refers to a diverse range of individuals, groups and organizations working to provide not only food but a sense of belonging to both children and adults.

Japan’s ‘children’s cafeterias’ are booming — but is that a good thing?

By Alex K.T. Martin

SUSTAINABLE JAPAN

SWCC keeps changing with keyword ‘new challenges’

SWCC keeps changing with keyword ‘new challenges’

SPECIAL SUPPLEMENTS

SUPPLEMENTS BINDER

international-reports