Robbie Swinnerton - The Japan Times

April 30, 2024

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Robbie Swinnerton

Robbie Swinnerton has been living, eating and writing about food in Tokyo for over 30 years. His column, Tokyo Food File, has run in The Japan Times since 1998.

For Robbie Swinnerton's latest contributions to The Japan Times, see below:

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 13, 2000

Bangkok's never too far away

You can't get authentic Thai food in Tokyo south of Kabukicho -- at least that's what the conventional wisdom would have us believe. Indeed, as with any such sweeping generalization, there's a kernel of truth to it -- as long as what you're after is hawker food that's rough but ever ready, gentle on the wallet but suitably abrasive on the palate.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Mar 23, 2000

In the realm of the culinary senses

Some people celebrate the cherry-blossom season in doggedly internationalist mode: Aoyama cemetery or the Tamagawa embankment; a few bottles of bubbly with cheese and crackers; maybe even some beluga roe if they're feeling flush. Others prefer to stagger down the well-worn path of traditionalism: Ueno Park; seething masses of humanity; isshobin magnums of coarse nihonshu; cold yakitori and ebi-sen crackers; karaoke and oblivion.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Mar 9, 2000

No stereotypes in 'the House of Weeds'

So you think Korean food is all smoky yakiniku, meat-laden stews and fiery, spicy kimchi? That's a bit like saying Chinese people eat nothing but ramen and gyoza; or that Thai cuisine begins and ends with tom yam kung. Or that there's nothing to eat in Japan except sushi, tempura and sukiyaki.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Feb 24, 2000

Italian home cooking from a solo artist

It's always depressing when news comes in that another good restaurant has bitten the dust. In the past month we've found out that two of the best (in their own ways) have given up the ghost. So it was with not a little trepidation that we hiked off into nether Ebisu to see if our long-time favorite backstreet Italian place was still there.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Feb 10, 2000

Whiter than white, cooler than cool

You can't miss Rokko An. It's the flash new place in Nishi-Azabu with the brilliant white concrete facade, on the left as you wend your way down toward Hiroo. From dusk till 4 in the morning it gleams out from a long, low picture-window right across Gaien Nishi-dori from (and totally in contrast with) the dark and decrepit whimsy of the down-and-out Wall building.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Jan 27, 2000

Culinary fire power, Szechwan style

They've never been big on central heating over in the Middle Kingdom. In rural Sichuan, when the icy winter gales blow in from across the Gobi desert, there's only one prescription for keeping the cold at bay: spicy food -- especially the fiery local hotpots -- at regular intervals and in generous quantities.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Jan 13, 2000

Come in from out of the cold

Finally we can put behind us the Christmas leftovers and the Hogmanay hangovers (not to mention the Y2chaos that never was) and assume some semblance of normality. Don't get the wrong idea -- we certainly put away our fair share of mince pies and Gaultier-clad millennial champagne over the holidays. But that just makes it even more of a relief to return to the simpler pleasures of the Japanese winter. What's called for now is hearty, warming fare: stick-to-your-ribs udon and bubbling nabe hot pots -- preferably both at the same time.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Dec 23, 1999

The best of the rest(aurants) of 1999

Before our memory cells get erased by the momentous celebrations and the post-millennial hangover, let's pause for a moment to consider some of the many places we visited and enjoyed in 1999 but which, for whatever reason, never made it into print.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Dec 9, 1999

Good-time dining for the new year

It's the time of year for that annual conundrum: Where to go for that end of year celebration. It really does have to be something European, with wine and a soft, jazzy backing track. You want something with style, but definitely not too formal; a place with a buzz, but not too well known; with good food, of course, but where the dynamics of the meal never get in the way of being together with your dining partner(s). In short, somewhere special.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Nov 11, 1999

No smoke gets in your eyes here

It is not so much ironic as inevitable that the shichirin -- the basic, mass-produced, charcoal-fired clay stove so widely used in Japan in the austere postwar reconstruction days -- has now been reinvented as the favorite cooking accessory for recession- chic dining out.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Oct 14, 1999

Food dilettantes need not apply

There are so many plants around the entrance of A Tes Souhaits you'd be forgiven for thinking this is one of those feminine restaurants where flowers and fancy frills take precedence over the food. The sight of the sous-chef squatting by the kitchen door plucking a wild fowl should disillusion you of that soon enough.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Sep 23, 1999

Kinoji: A sanctuary of simple elegance

Kinoji lies well off the beaten track, on an unremarkable stretch of a nondescript avenue. But that only makes it easier to spot the bold, contemporary lines of the five-story architects' building, in which Kinoji occupies the basement level.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Sep 9, 1999

Taverna Rondino: Kamakura's most excellent cucina

Now that summer is finally past its punishing prime, it's time for the beach. September is the finest season down on the Shonan waterfront: The sun and water are still plenty warm enough; the teenybopper crowds have dissipated; and the rip-off beach houses have packed up and gone, taking their dubious yaki-soba and construction company connections with them.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Aug 12, 1999

Morocco: Moroccan fare to make the belly dance

The inquiry, from a regular reader, sounded more plaintive than optimistic. Is there anywhere in town that serves real, authentic Moroccan food?

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jul 22, 1999

The new alfresco hits the pavement

It was not so long ago that alfresco dining here meant choosing between a raucous, roof-top beer garden or the cosy, elbow-rubbing confines of a funky pavement yatai. And if oden or ramen and a glass of cheap sake was not quite what you had in mind for a romantic evening out, too bad.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jul 8, 1999

'Wabi-sabi' with a modern edge

Wasabiya epitomizes the very 1990s genre that has come to be known in Japanese as "dining bars." That means you can treat it as a restaurant, as an izakaya or even as a kind of designer drinking hold; it just depends on how hungry or thirsty you are.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 8, 1999

An old street favorite makes good

Okonomiyaki: It's the ultimate street food, stomach-filling, easy to prepare and just as fast to consume. Born amid the rubble of postwar Osaka (according to one version of the legend) but rapidly embraced by the entire nation, no other style of Japanese cooking comes close in terms of being so cheap, hearty and fun.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mar 25, 1999

Kokotei: Kamakura cuisine with a view

For most city folk, the best thing about Kamakura is the reassurance that it actually exists. We don't need to go there so often: It's enough to know that, less than an hour away down the JR tracks, there really are quiet backstreets to wander in, temples and monuments exuding a whiff of history, brine and beach for the warmer months, and wooded hills for a dose of what used to be known (in classic Japlish) as "green bathing."

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Feb 25, 1999

Matsuya: The heart of Tokyo's little Seoul

Despite the considerable demographic surges in recent years from Southeast Asia (and much further afield), the few square blocks that lie between the north side of Kabukicho and Shin-Okubo still justify keeping the title of Tokyo's Little Seoul district. And this is where we head for whenever those cravings arise for an infusion of full-blooded authentic Korean food.

From easily navigable train stations to the helpfulness of its municipal staff, Tokyo has earned high praise for its commitment to accessibility for disabled travelers.

[Rebroadcast] Japan is doing better on accessibility than you may think

When trying to trace your lineage in Japan, the "koseki" is the most important form of document you'll encounter.

Climbing the branches of a Japanese family tree

By Alex K.T. Martin

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Students ‘study abroad’ on island of Suo Oshima

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