First impressions are everything. At Ode, it's the gun-metal gray wall by the front door and the row of white orchids lined up against it. Even before you go in you can tell chef Yusuke Namai's new restaurant has the look and style to match his aspirations.
There's plenty more to impress once you get inside: the sleek, wide counter surrounding the spacious open kitchen; the light-filled dining room; the glimpses through the window of the neighboring temple. But most impressive is how at home Namai looks in this new setting.
Over six months elapsed from leaving the excellent (but cramped and chintzy) Chic Peut Etre in Hatchobori until he resurfaced here on the edge of Hiroo. The good news is that he put that hiatus to use. He's returned brimming with ideas and a raft of recipes as fresh as his restaurant.