Change comes in subtle increments in the ramen world, rarely in sudden leaps. That's why it was exciting to discover Gonokami Suisan and its hip, young crew earlier this year in the backstreets north of Kanda Station. Last December when it opened, lines formed around the block to sample the trademark seafood ramen. Unlike Kyushu-style agodashi broths, which are light and clear, the soups at Gonokami Suisan are thick and comforting, like a French bisque.