The term "izakaya," loosely translated, means "a place where you can settle in with sake." But that glosses over the two other essential attributes: the food; and the atmosphere, the buzz, what the Irish might call the craic. Okagesan boasts all three -- sake, ...

Not only does Nohira serve up fare that few French people would fault, he does it with a lightness of touch and flair for presentation that would embarrass most bistros in France. He also uses an interesting selection of ingredients that is certainly above ...

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