There was a lag in waiting for it — lunch here takes about 90 minutes — but, just as in Sasaki, each customer or group is presented with their own pot of rice. The ingredients were an ode to the season: slivers of gobo (burdock root) threaded together with scallops enfolded in a steaming rice. Despite this weighty combination, the harmony of flavors soared. And as a bonus, you can take home what you can’t finish as an onigiri (rice ball). A simple rice ball may never taste this good again. Kitagawa opened his restaurant four years ago close to Osaka’s Kitashinchi neighborhood where there is no shortage of competition and enough Michelin stars to form a small galaxy.