Review excerpt: The Fuchidaka bento lunch (¥3,000) at Ajiro, which changes in accordance with the seasons, opened with a briny, cold sake that acts as a palette cleanser. This was accompanied by goma-dofu (sesame tofu) topped with a perfectly sculpted mound of grated ginger and a sprig of hana-sanshō (pepper flowers). Kyoto’s soft water is ideal for making tofu, and I would proffer in Kyoto you’ll find some of Japan’s best goma-dofu. Ajiro’s firm offering bolsters that claim — you won’t need the little splash of soy sauce it comes with. This was followed by a translucent citrus-flavored dashi soup containing yuba (bean curd skin) and a shimeji mushroom. Both were delightfully meaty.