When traveling, eating as the locals do is a quintessential truism. Repeated ad nauseam, however, the mantra can become mere lip service. In Japan, you really should make an effort to dine on the same ingredients as the cook making your meal — which is where the makanai (staff meal) comes in.
Simple, seasonal and nourishing, these dishes vary as much as menus do and often incorporate the very same ingredients, minus the pretense of the dining room.
Slated to officially kick off in autumn 2025, the Niseko Food & Wine festival seeks to break down the barrier not only between makanai and diner but also between Hokkaido’s ample land, the bounty it holds and the tables its meat and produce eventually end up on. As part of a pilot program held in September, a hands-on butchery workshop took place at Kitchen, the second restaurant of chef Yoichi Kamimura housed in the luxurious Chatrium Niseko. There, Tokachi-based hunter Maya Nakamura instructed participants how to break down whole legs of wild Ezo sika deer.
With the freshly butchered deer, visiting chefs from Tokyo whipped up a simple ragu with fresh egg tagliatelle, both for themselves and all in attendance. What follows is an adapted dish relayed to me by chef Chihiro Naito, formerly of L’Effervescence, An Di and newly opened Just Pho You.
Any meat you like can replace the venison. In the spirit of makanai, serve with whatever pasta you have on hand.
Serves 4
Cook time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
- 30 milliliters olive oil
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 1 carrot, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 200 grams deer mince (or ground meat)
- 2 bay leaves
- 100 milliliters red wine
- 100 milliliters chicken stock
- 350 grams diced tomatoes
- 300-400 grams pasta
- Black pepper and salt to taste
- Optional: Butter and cheese for topping
Directions:
1. In a heavy pan over low heat, sweat the onion, carrot and garlic in olive oil for five minutes, then set aside. Raise the heat to high to get the pan smoking hot, then add the deer mince a little at a time, not stirring until well-seared and browned. Season your meat with salt, pepper and bay leaves.
2. Once completely browned, deglaze the pan with wine and stir to release any fond. Add the chicken stock and tomatoes, then bring everything to a boil and reduce for five minutes.
3. Cook your pasta until al dente — usually one minute less than packet directions. Drain the water, reserving 200 milliliters.
4. In a separate pan, toss the cooked pasta in a little butter, then top it with your ragu sauce from step 1. Alternatively, add the pasta to the ragu sauce, heating to combine with a little butter. If everything is a bit too dry, add a little pasta water.
5. Serve in bowls and top with freshly grated parmesan or your favorite cheese.
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