As we bid farewell to 2023, Kanpai Culture toasts to a year of revival and reinvention in Tokyo’s vibrant drinks scene.
From the resurgence of one of the oldest styles of nihonshu (sake) to novel concoctions based on shōchū (Japan’s indigenous spirit) and sky bars echoing the glamor of a bygone era — this year’s trends offer a spirit-forward reflection on the past as well as glimpses of the future.
Known as doburoku, this rustic style of cloudy sake traditionally brewed at home traces its roots back to the introduction of rice cultivation in Japan. Previously outlawed for taxation reasons, the drink has gained popularity over the past couple of years, with chefs and sommeliers exploring its potential as a match for umami-rich, fermented ingredients like cheese. Now, the unfiltered brew can be found on menus at some of the city’s buzziest restaurants, including two-Michelin-starred Florilege and avant-garde sake bar Eureka.
An updated version of the classic tipple takes center stage at Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery, a sleek brewpub around the corner from the Tokyo Stock Exchange building. An outpost of Wakayama Prefecture’s Heiwa Shuzo, which produces the popular Kid sake brand, the bar exudes an airy atmosphere with its large windows and blond wood fixtures. In addition to the original doburoku, a thick and yogurty sake with a hint of fruity fizz, the menu lists brews flavored with hops or seasonal fruits, aged styles and textured varieties enriched with adzuki red beans or black beans.
At Folklore, a bar tucked into the stylish Hibiya Okuroji corridor minutes away from Uchisaiwaicho Station, the ancient brew shines in the aptly named Origin cocktail. A melange of doburoku, pear vodka and honey, the fragrant elixir balances sweetness with an herbal note of chamomile. The youngest sibling in the Mixology Group’s family of watering holes, Folklore delves into the terroir of Japanese drinks. The menu, overseen by head bartender Yukino Sato, features inventive libations based on shōchū, sake and domestically produced spirits.
The Aromatic Wood cocktail pairs fragrant kyara aloe wood (used in Japanese incense) with white port and a full-bodied brew from the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, accented with tonka bean and poured over a sphere of Geisha coffee ice. The earth-toned space, reminiscent of the shadowy interior of a traditional kominka farmhouse, emanates simple elegance.
Unrestrained opulence, however, is the name of the game at Tokyo’s design-centric luxury hotel bars, where award-winning bartenders are ushering in a new golden age of cocktails.
Across from Tokyo Station, nestled atop the Bulgari Hotel in the Yaesu Midtown building, the glittering Bulgari Bar opened to great fanfare in April, and head barman Andrea Minarelli continues to innovate with precisely crafted cocktails combining spirits from Japan and Italy. A consistent crowd-pleaser, the Roasted Negroni is a swirl of Tanqueray No. 10 gin infused with genmaicha (roasted green tea), Campari and Mancino Chinato vermouth. Meanwhile, the seasonal menu sparkles with liquid gems like the holiday-themed Panettone Time tipple made with panettone-infused Michter’s bourbon, lemon and fortified Marsala wine, topped with zabaione cream foam. A slice of the famous Italian sweet bread provides the finishing touch.
Inside the sumptuous Four Seasons Hotel at Otemachi, Virtu is hitting its stride under the direction of Keith Motsi, a veteran of the international bar scene. Named winner of the Disaronno Highest New Entry Award at the Asia’s 50 Best Bars ceremony in July, Virtu debuted at No. 20 on the prestigious list.
Virtu’s signatures have since been polished to perfection. The Someiyoshino, a medley of rice shōchū, absinthe and grapefruit juice garnished with dried cherry blossom, makes a lovely aperitif, while the Takara, a dangerously smooth blend of Hekishu whisky, sweet vermouth and Chartreuse, is an ideal nightcap.
For those looking to get one last round of drinks in before the year is out, Virtu will be serving a festive Christmas Punch Bowl (available Dec. 20 to 25) featuring gin, champagne and cranberry juice scented with cinnamon and nutmeg. For an extravagant indulgence, Virtu also offers the chance to savor the limited-edition Louis XIII Rare Cask 42.6, produced by Remy Martin — only 775 bottles of the unique cognac exist in the world.
Elsewhere, Kentaro Wada and the Ritz-Carlton Tokyo’s Lobby Lounge, a pioneer of the city’s creative cocktail scene since its opening in 2007, has recently unveiled its Ultimate Japan menu. This new offering highlights exceptional ingredients sourced from around the country, marking the next phase in the bar’s evolution.
Wada’s take on the mojito combines caviar lime from the Setouchi Islands with wasanbon (brown sugar) syrup and the surprising pop of carbonated ice; a warm tipple of clear consomme spiked with Haku vodka and served with a kombu kelp-marinated fruit tomato is a refined Bullshot with an East-meets-West twist. The layered Bees & Tea cocktail features honey from Japanese bees paired with Kyoto Distillery’s Ki No Tea dry gin and lemon juice. It’s a sophisticated riff on the classic Bee’s Knees, and matcha powder from Kyoto Prefecture adds a touch of umami as well as a festive burst of green and gold color.
Here’s to another year of intoxicating adventures. Kanpai to 2024!