"Eureka!" The brass plate inscribed on the maroon metal door leaves no doubt: You’ve arrived at Tokyo’s finest new sake bar.

Not that getting there requires any feat of forensic map reading. Just steps from the busy Nishiazabu crossing and in plain view from the sidewalk, Eureka is every bit as easy to find as it is accessible to enter.

Rather, that exclamatory sign will presage your reaction as you sample the remarkable range of flavors and styles of sake served there. If you’re visiting for the first time, it’s likely to be quite the discovery.