Spring brings new beginnings. It also ushers in restaurant openings galore. This year, few are likely to be as radical and impressive as the rebirth and reinvention of Florilege.

For the past five years, the creative modern-French cuisine of owner-chef Hiroyasu Kawate has been one of Tokyo's best-kept culinary secrets.

At his bijou restaurant, hidden deep in the residential backstreets of Aoyama, he has built up a devoted following among local gourmets while remaining largely ignored by out-of-towners.