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Tokyo does not lack for good tonkatsu. There are very few neighborhoods that do not boast a few reliable purveyors of the breaded, deep-fried cutlets, all crisp on the outside and — fingers crossed — oozing juicy, porcine goodness from the interior.

Most are humble operations that cater to customers who demand maximum meat for their money. A select few take themselves more seriously, offering high-end cuts, wine lists and other gourmet refinements. Most satisfying of all, though, are those that follow the middle path of unpretentious quality — the way Tonkatsu Nanaido does it.

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