Kaminoyama, Yamagata Prefecture – ‘Kicchae, kicchae,” Noriko Kishidaira’s father said. “Just cut ’em down!”
It was the 1990s and the young woman had recently returned from a four-year spell studying winemaking and training at vineyards in France, imbued with a conviction that old vines passed down through generations produce finer wine.
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