Congratulations, folks, we got there. Just making it to 2021 is grounds for celebration. Nothing inappropriate, of course, and no boisterous crowds. A quiet toast or two at a discreet, discerning local tavern sounds about right. Shuka Nomoto fits that bill perfectly.

Hidden away in a quiet residential neighborhood on the furthest fringe of Ebisu, Nomoto is not the easiest izakaya to track down. The only indication you’ve reached the right place is the logo on the traditional andon lamp glowing at foot level outside the front door — and the wide picture window that spans the restaurant’s modest frontage.

Anywhere else, this amount of glass might make it feel too exposed, an invitation for passersby to stop and peer inside enviously. No worries here: The only other people you’re likely to see on this particular backstreet will be your fellow diners as they arrive for the evening.