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The first time I went looking for Taiyo, I couldn’t find it. But I could smell it. Quite a few people had recommended that I check it out, especially as I have a crater-sized soft spot for curry. And so there I was in Saiin, an unpretentious neighborhood in the west of Kyoto, with the distinct aroma of curry in the air leading me astray.

As it turned out, I was in the wrong stairwell in the right building. All I had to do was go to the front of the building, right on Shijo-dori, where I found myself at the end of a crowd of people lined up to get their curry fix.

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