The first time I went looking for Taiyo, I couldn't find it. But I could smell it. Quite a few people had recommended that I check it out, especially as I have a crater-sized soft spot for curry. And so there I was in Saiin, an unpretentious neighborhood in the west of Kyoto, with the distinct aroma of curry in the air leading me astray.

As it turned out, I was in the wrong stairwell in the right building. All I had to do was go to the front of the building, right on Shijo-dori, where I found myself at the end of a crowd of people lined up to get their curry fix.

Once you finally get up the stairs and in the door of Taiyo there's an annex where Yumi Seto — one half of the team that runs Taiyo — is on hand to take your order. The little alcove is filled with autographs and portraits of TV stars and showbiz personalities who've all made the pilgrimage to Taiyo. As to why? When your curry comes it's not hard to discern.