When it comes to premium yakitori, nowhere does it better than grillmaster supreme Yoshiteru Ikegawa’s brilliant Torishiki. No place is harder to reserve, either. Which is why it was such good news when Torioka, his new offshoot, opened last autumn.

Not only is the location more central — in the heart of Roppongi Hills, no less — Torioka is also more stylish and, for the time being at any rate, much easier to book. And while Ikegawa himself is not there stoking the glowing Binchotan charcoal with his large white fan, the man at the helm is his longtime assistant, Noriyuki Kurosaki, so you know you will be in safe hands.

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