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The sign on the street outside Tempura Yokota and the elevator up to the restaurant are as modern as they come. But the patinated sliding wooden door that greets you on arrival speaks of tradition and, once you’re inside, so does the welcome.

Chef Tsuneo Yokota has been plying his trade in Azabu-Juban since 1980, and during that time he has seen big changes in the neighborhood — not least his own move into new premises some eight years ago. Through it all, his intimate restaurant has retained an old-school, local feel.

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