Tempu is in no way a destination restaurant. It’s a six-minute schlep beside the tracks from JR Shibuya Station, and when you arrive all you’ll find is a cluttered hole-in-the-wall that fits eight at a pinch, all standing. But it’s this funky setting that makes it such a favorite with the locals — and the fact it serves great takoyaki.

Those golden-fried balls of molten dough concealing cores of rubbery octopus are out-and-out comfort food, even in their Osaka heartland. That’s where Tempu’s owner hails from and he has a killer recipe for his hometown specialty.

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