Reviewing restaurants is a slippery slope to overindulgence. That's why opting for lunch can be a safer bet than dinner. Not only are lunch reservations easier to come by and the bills easier on the wallet, but midday meals help to ensure you getting home before sunset, or sunrise. That didn't happen on a recent visit to Ajikyu, a timeless and homely izakaya (traditional tavern) past Sanjo-dori on the far side of Gion, Kyoto's nightlife paradise.

Though Sanjo-dori could be considered the northern limit of Gion, the fun doesn't have to stop there. But, as with a lot of things in Japan, you might need help finding it.

Ajikyu is located on a quiet residential street. The genteel surroundings belie the boisterous and lively atmosphere inside — this is the type of establishment that's a home away from home for its patrons, and one where intimacy is not optional.