Shinmai-nyuka -- the new rice is in stock. Far more than just a statement of fact, it's a cry of exultation that has echoed down the centuries. Last autumn's rice is old and tired; this year's newly harvested grain is fresh and full of flavor. Is that not cause for celebration?
In cultures where rice is considered little more than bland, carbohydrate filler, such sentiments may seem strange. In Japan, the staple grain has always occupied a central place on dinner tables around the country, especially in farmhouses and rural communities, but also here in the heart of the city -- as brilliantly demonstrated at Kokoromai.
This simple yet chic little restaurant (in Japanese it would be termed a koryoriya) features rice the way other places specialize in, say, chicken, eel or beef tongue. Instead of relegating it to a bit part, an afterthought to round off the meal, Kokoromai elevates it to the starring role.