In Japan's otherwise troubled economy, women's buying power has been often cited as the force behind a stunning phenomenon of growth in the '90s -- the wine industry. In fact, during that time, Japanese women not only drove the rise in wine consumption, but they also found professional opportunities in the wine trade.

At first glance, it seems counterintuitive that women here should encounter new job options in wine, a field that elsewhere in the world has long been considered stodgy, elitist and traditional. Caves Taillevent sommelier Benoit Monier recalls that "Until recently, at a three-star Michelin restaurant in France, for example, the only woman staff member would be found at the reception desk."

Notes U.S. winemaker Bruce Gutlove, who has worked in Japan for the past decade: "There's generally an Old World aspect to winemaking. A generation ago, some places would not even allow women in the cellar."

In Tokyo these days, however, many professional women have gone down into the wine cellar -- and become masters of its realm. We have written here before about gifted women in the wine business such as Shoko Davis, proprietor of Wine Cellar Davis (2-5-6 Takanawa, Minato-ku; [03] 3440-6007) and Hiroko Shiozaki, founder of Hiroo's DD, an all-California wine bar (5-2-39 Hiroo; [03] 5789-3677).

Add Hisako Igo to the list of Japan's talented women in wine. Igo-san is the creative owner behind one of our favorite Tokyo wine bars, Kissako (Plaza Kay Bldg. 2F, 5-1-1 Nishi Azabu; [03] 5475-5920), where an extensive wine list is paired with refined, inventive Franco-Japonesque cuisine. Before launching Kissako, Igo-san gained first-class experience at Chinois-Shibuya, a wine restaurant known for its elegant European twist on Japanese dishes (such as foie gras donburi, saikyo miso chicken and omu-raisu) served with magnificent wines (A2 Bldg. 8F, 28-4 Shibuya Dogenzaka; [03] 5457-2412).

At some point, every wine or food writer agonizes over revealing a special place that they secretly love. We wonder whether we risk upsetting the delicate chemistry that makes a small spot feel rare and comforting in a vast city. But today, Vineland will confess the full details and leave it up to readers to decide if they feel that Kissako might speak to them.

This sleek wine bar is as elegant and peaceful as a private club, discreetly situated on the second floor of a Nishi Azabu building. Its dark, polished wood floor and white walls are illuminated by low, golden light. The main room contains a counter with just nine seats and two linen-covered tables. Behind a graceful, sliding wooden lattice, a small "chambre separee" is furnished with sofas and armchairs, shadowed by leafy potted palms.

While you can certainly indulge here, extravagant spending is not required for a luxurious experience. A wine bar proprietor who is a true lover of wine will offer excellent choices at every price level. And so it is at Kissako, where Igo-san pours treasures from her wine cellar at a wide spectrum of prices.

To start the evening in style, Bollinger Brut Imperial NV is 6,700 yen/bottle -- a consumer-friendly price for Champagne at an elegant Tokyo venue. But if you wish to splash out, you might opt for 1995 Louis Roederer Cristal (20,000 yen) or 1985 Salon Champagne (21,000 yen). Kissako offers 11 Champagnes in total, from the top non-vintages (Krug, Veuve Cliquot and Gosset) to special finds such as a 1990 Bruno Paillard N.P.U. (19,500 yen).

At the good-value end, choose from bottles such as 1999 Clos d'Yvigne Cuvee Princess Cotes de Bergerac (4,200 yen), 1999 Cachet-Ocquidant Bourgogne Haut Cotes de Nuits (4,800 yen) or a 1996 Raymond Roque Grande Reserve Faugeres (5,200 yen). Our mid-range recommendation is the meaty 1998 Pegau Cha^teauneuf-du-Pape -- an excellent red from a great Rho^ne vintage at 7,400 yen.

For big spenders, grands vins make Kissako a worthy destination. Among them are 1975 Chateau Latour (48,000 yen); 1976 Cheval Blanc (39,600 yen); 1986 Chateau Haut-Brion (45,000 yen) and 1988 Mouton-Rothschild (42,000 yen).

If you're intrigued to try wines with Kissako's signature Japanese cuisine (infused with European inspiration), we recommend a set course here. The 4,800 yen set dinner is a generous, leisurely procession of delectable nibbles (three cold appetizers; three warm appetizers; soup; fish or meat; soba course; dessert and tea/coffee).

We started with an onsen tamago (soft-boiled egg), nestled in a deep, trumpet-shaped white pottery bowl, with a chilled gelee of consomme and bright flecks of salmon caviar. A succulent, honeyed 1998 Paul Blank Schlossberg Riesling (5,800 yen/bottle) was a superb foil for the dish's rich, salty flavors.

The faintly earthy undertone of this Alsatian Riesling resonated with three savory, warm dishes: a smokey oyster on a paper-thin slice of chargrilled eggplant; a small bowl of edamame risotto, topped with carmelized foie gras; and a croquette of escargot.

Perhaps, like us, you never expected to encounter the perfect bowl of soba in a wine bar. A Kissako meal ends with the pure, nutty flavor of fine-quality buckwheat noodles. Which wine goes best with soba (aged Champagne? a thimble of dry olorosso sherry?) We'll save that debate for another column. In the meantime, send your thoughts on this or any other wine-related subject to [email protected].