Recent Vineland columns have focused on distinctive, luxury wines for holiday gift-giving and festive dinners. For our last column in 2001, we pursued an elusive category -- delicious bargain party bottles. It's a tantalizing quest. Few achievements are more gratifying to a wine lover than discovering an affordable indulgence.

If you are looking for an inexpensive sparkler to serve to a crowd, consider Eclipse Methode Traditionelle Brut Cava from Chandon, Spain (1,250 yen; Party, [03] 5424-2580). This grassy, lemon-lime flavored cava is zesty, refreshing and bone-dry.

Pay a few coins more for a step up in quality. One of our favorite bargain bubblies is Parigot Cremant de Bourgogne NV (Enoteca, (03) 3280-3634), available in both white and rose for 1,890 yen. It is made in the classic method associated with champagne, although the term "cremant" indicates a softer fizz. We have bought this wine by the case for parties; it is always well-received.

Another classy, good-value option is Georges Blanc Brut D'Azenay Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blanc NV (2,300 yen; Party). It's the house sparkling wine at Chef Georges Blanc's legendary 3-Star Guide Michelin restaurant in France. This distinctive bubbly is rich, elegant and complex, with buttery, savory, slightly oxidized flavors reminiscent of vintage champagne. It's full-bodied enough to serve with a meal.

Our pick for a reasonable party white wine comes from Portugal. The 2000 JP Vinhos Branco (980 yen; Enoteca shops, [03] 3280-3634) is made by Antonio Francisco Avillez, a seventh-generation winemaker descended from the Fonseca port family. Fragrant with floral, lemon and honey aromas, his zingy, crisp lime-flavored white will complement shellfish (especially oysters).

For a well-priced red, 1999 Cha^teau Tour Boisee Cuvee a Marie Claude Minervois AC from Marie-Claude and Jean-Louis Poudou comes in a handsome magnum (the 1,500 ml double bottle, 2,888 yen; Party). This dark, earthy Syrah/Carignane blend comes from a respected Minervois estate. Its coffee, prunes, bitter chocolate and beef broth flavors go well with roast lamb or meaty stew. But its wild/gamey Southern French style will not appeal to everyone.

If you prefer a brighter red, you could instead serve the 1998 Rothbury Estate Mudgee Shiraz (1,350 yen; National Azabu, [03] 3442-3181). It offers up aromas of rum and wild-cherry lozenges, mingling with mocha, vanilla, blackberry and smoke flavors.

Another good bet is the 1999 D'Arenberg The Footbolt Old Vine Shiraz (1,700 yen; National Azabu). It is a more savory Shiraz, deep black with tarry blackberry, plum and black pepper flavors, softened by a whiff of oaky vanilla. D'Arenberg has gained a cult following for its superb Shiraz wines, and this wine is one of its budget-friendly editions.

Whatever you decide to quaff on New Year's Eve, we wish you robust health, good cheer, and more wine adventures in 2002!

After the New Year holidays, deep winter sets in with January. Party season fades. People will furiously pedal nowhere on their exercise bikes and swear to abstain from wretched excess. Yet it need not be a bleak time for wine lovers. Resolve to be undaunted: good wine tastings continue in Tokyo.

To start the New Year with celebration, mark your calendar now for tastings. If you are in the mood to splurge, the Caves Taillevent hosts its sumptuous monthly wine dinner on Jan. 23. Held at Chateau Taillevent-Robuchon's Cafe Francais, this haute cuisine dinner unfolds in multiple elegant courses, accompanied by wines from Caves Taillevent (15 yen,000/person). For reservations, call (03) 5424-1338.

For an informal, inexpensive event, try the monthly wine-tasting evenings at Ben's Cafe. Former Mainichi Daily News wine writer Adrian Beard introduces a selection of wines, served with homely food by Chef Rei, for 3 yen,500/person. The next event takes place Jan. 21 at 8:30 p.m. (reservations needed). See www.benscafe.com for more information and a map.