Over the years, every step in the brewing process has been subject to a barrage of so-called technical advances. More often than not, though, these modern technologies are not as good as the traditional methods they replace.

Some developments save so much time, labor and money that a small dip in quality is tolerated. Others are good for making mass-produced, cheap stuff, but too much is sacrificed to permit the brewing of premium sake. Often, the old, hard, traditional methods and tools are best.

But there is one step in the process in which, it is universally agreed, modern technology has helped make vastly superior sake: rice milling, or seimai. Until around 80 years ago, rice milling was not very accurate and was rough on the rice. Brewers had no accurate way to measure how hard they were grinding, and much of the rice was crushed in the process.