Before I'd even had a chance to say hello to Kim he was stretched out in the sunlight with indulgent abandon and was either snoring or thinking out loud very audibly. A guest began to chat with Boris Lieber, epicure, buckwheat cooking buff and owner-proprietor of Slovenia's highly regarded Pension Lieber. I'd just arrived for the first time in a few years and, over a glass of good Slovenian merlot, was about to recall my first rain-soaked dead-of-night visit in 1993 when Kim began his sonorous serenade.

"Kim seems at peace with the world," I said to Boris' son Sashta, who explained that their pet French bulldog dozed off quickly when denied attention, as he now was.

Being denied attention is a fate that never befalls Pension Lieber, a popular stop for visitors from Austria, Bavaria, Italy and Switzerland, as well as from all over Slovenia, who return again and again to enjoy the spontaneous service, the friendly ambience and the always excellent Slovenian dishes and wines.