Despite the considerable demographic surges in recent years from Southeast Asia (and much further afield), the few square blocks that lie between the north side of Kabukicho and Shin-Okubo still justify keeping the title of Tokyo's Little Seoul district. And this is where we head for whenever those cravings arise for an infusion of full-blooded authentic Korean food.
With all due respect to Ueno, Akasaka and Azabu-Juban, nowhere else in town delivers the true flavor of the Korean Peninsula. The eateries here are not like those anemic restaurants where the food is a bland, Japanified approximation of kankoku ryori -- and certainly very different from those ubiquitous smoky joints which purvey little more than yakiniku.
Little Seoul is where Tokyo's own Korean population comes to dine. Everyone has their own favorites: Mugyodon, Seoul House and the wonderful Omuni Shokudo. But best of the lot -- especially at this time of year when the inner flames need a boost not just of chili and kimchi but also the warmth of human companionship -- is Sonanchip, otherwise known by its assimilated name, Matsuya.