WASHINGTON -- Sushi captured the hearts and stomachs of Edoites and quickly became a trendy fast food when it was introduced in the early 19th century. Over 170 years later, it has become a signature Japanese food, with lovers all over the world.

Washington, D.C. is no exception. Health-conscious locals savor the low-cal fare. Sushi is not exclusive to Japanese restaurants any more -- it's readily available at neighborhood supermarkets.

Not very surprisingly, therefore, the first U.S. sushi-making contest was held in the U.S. capital earlier this month. A sushi-making contest is held regularly in Japan by the National Sushi Hygienic Environment Board of the National Sushi Society, where chefs gather from all over Japan to battle for the prestigious national championship title. The society established a Washington branch two years ago, and brought the same contest in D.C. for local chefs.

"I hope the competition motivates sushi chefs around the D.C. area to further polish their skills and help serve better sushi," Seishi Yamazaki, chief of the sushi society's Washington branch said.

Eighteen ambitious chefs entered this competition -- nine for makizushi (sushi rolls) and nine for regular nigiri. Since speedy preparation is the key to good sushi, makizushi participants were required to make five different kinds of rolls in 15 minutes, while the nigiri contenders had to produce a combination of 30 nigiri and three kinds of rolls in 25 minutes. Sasagiri, decorative bamboo leaf cutting, is required for both categories. Senior members of the sushi society then rated the contestants' performance on a scale of 100 points.

One may wonder how it is possible to objectively rate sushi making, but surprisingly detailed rules and traditions exist for its creation. As seen in other parts of Japanese culture, such as the tea ceremony, the rating is largely based on how well the participants follow those rules. For instance, placement of nori (seaweed), vinegar, wasabi and knife are strictly set. There is a certain way of handling the knife, use cloth and treat the cutting board to minimize the risk of injury and to keep the workplace extremely sanitary at all times. Chefs must slice blocks of fish into appropriately sized pieces and to meticulously cut bamboo leaves for decoration.

When served on the lacquered handai plate, rolls should be equal in height and thickness, with the ingredients beautifully displayed in the center. For nigiri, the rice pieces should be equal in size and firmness, with smoothly cut fish slices on top.

The color scheme is also important. Five basic colors exist in sushi: blue from the skin of "shiny fish" such as saba (mackerel) and aji (saurel); yellow from omelette roll, red from tuna; white from vinegared rice; and black from nori. Chefs need to produce the most striking balance of those colors on the plate.

"Sushi looks simple, and this may lead to the belief that anybody can make it," says Masayoshi Kazato, secretary general of the sushi society. "It is, however, difficult to make it right. When that is done, I believe sushi can become an art, and this is the type of sushi professional sushi chefs should serve. Training in the basic skills and manners, which are tested in the contest, is indispensable."

The contest started with a demonstration of nigiri making by last year's national champion from Japan, 31-year-old Takayuki Kurauchi. The 13-year veteran produced beautiful sushi with flawless uptempo rhythm. Very clean and tidy, as all sushi chefs are required to be, he sported short hair and nails, no beard, no rings, no watch, and was clad in a bright white apron.

The makizushi and nigiri competitions followed. The competitions turned out to be surprisingly challenging for most contestants. "I was too nervous. I wasted too much time cutting bamboo leaves," said 24-yea-old Jeff Ramsey. But he was not alone. Only four of the 18 contestants made it in time.

The contenders seemed stunned by the national champion's performance. "He was very impressive," said Xin Yao, a 46-year-old chef originally from Shanghai, who has been making sushi for three years. "He made sushi fast yet moved so gracefully."

Sun Taipin, a 38-year-old from China's Henan Province, agreed with Xin and added, "I came to the competition because I just wanted to try. I found the competition very tough, but I think I had fun."

The winner of the nigiri contest was 38-year-old Hideo Kurihara, a 20-year veteran. He came from New Jersey where he opened his sushi restaurant eight years ago. "I did the best I could. The 25-minute time limit was not easy to beat. But I am happy with the result," he said.

For makizushi, the winner was 25-year-old Takuma Seki. "I did not expect to win and I am very glad that I did, but I know I have a long way before I reach the national champion's level," he said.

Seki, a former salaryman, has had only a two-year career as a sushi chef. "I like sushi making much more than being a salaryman," he said, "because nothing is more rewarding than hearing the customers say they love my sushi."

Shigeo Mori, chairman of the sushi society, appreciated the contestants' efforts. "I think they all did a wonderful job, and made the judges' job a whole lot harder. I think dramatic improvement has been taking place in sushi making in the Washington area in the past few years, and I hope that the chefs will keep up with the good work!"