It's late afternoon in Beijing. Beside a gloomy, concrete platform an antiquated train lumbers into place. In the dim light, people scurry about looking for the right car. This is, in fact, important. The first four carriages are bound for Dandong, a small Chinese border town, but the last two will continue on. They'll have some 200 km farther to go before reaching their final destination: Pyongyang, North Korea. Outside the North Korean cars, people with discreet "Dear Leader" pins on their dark, well-cut suits bow their goodbyes. Small packages are handed off as passengers hurry onto the train. The 5:20 p.m. overnight to Pyongyang is ready to depart.