Every once in a while, even a dining stalwart needs to be renovated. But when the institution in question is as revered as Nadaman Sazanka-so, deference must be given to the heritage within its very walls.

Nadaman Sazanka-so was first established in Osaka in 1830 before moving to Tokyo’s Hotel New Otani in 1974. The restaurant specializes in kaiseki (multicourse Japanese haute cuisine).

While other Nadaman branches have opened in high-end hotels in Japan and overseas over the decades, the flagship Nadaman Sazanka-so remains a special dining destination. Its location in the center of Hotel New Otani’s 400-year-old Japanese garden lends it a rustic air — a peaceful getaway from the city’s hustle and bustle. The building, with its teahouse aesthetics designed by the late architect Togo Murano, is considered a masterpiece in traditional architecture.