Censu has the makings of a perfect “third place” — a social venue separate from home and work where people can gather and mingle.
Located near the Olympic Stadium in Tokyo’s Jingumae neighborhood, the two-story modern izakaya (Japanese pub), which opened in late July, has become a favorite among locals and international visitors alike for just this reason. Beyond the sliding door, the warm and welcoming wood interior, with pop accents like skull-print houndstooth pillows, brings together wabi-sabi aesthetics with a hipster-hangout vibe. The convivial hum of conversation punctuated by the clinking of glasses, melds with a soundtrack of 1990s hip-hop as chefs ply their trade in the small open kitchen behind the counter.
Though contemporary izakaya are a dime a dozen in the capital, Censu stands out in part for its thoughtfully curated list of natural wines. Founder Shun Sato fell in love with the drink while working in Australia, and he counts Staring at the Sun, a funky and floral orange wine from Central Victoria, as one of his favorite tipples. You can order by the glass or the bottle, but the restaurant also offers wine-pairing courses, selected by general manager Miki Konatsu, to accompany the tasting menus of small plates served on the first floor.
Wine is an apt match for Censu’s eclectic cuisine. Signatures like the snapper with pickled daikon radish and yuzukoshō (Japanese citrus and chili paste), and the unigiri — a Japanese pun as well as a culinary play on a grilled onigiri (rice ball), topped with uni (sea urchin) and shiso (perilla) and then served in an abalone broth — are rooted in Japanese culinary vernacular but take in the breadth of Sato’s diverse experiences abroad.
A native of Sendai, Sato cut his teeth as a kid doing odd jobs at his father’s izakaya. After working his way up the ladder at a French restaurant in Tokyo, he landed a spot at two-Michelin-starred Yoshii’s Omakase in Sydney. His travels later took him to London and eventually Hong Kong, where he honed his skills at acclaimed restaurants such as Belon, Ho Lee Fook and Fukuro. In 2021, he struck out on his own with the original Censu, which opened in Hong Kong’s trendy Sheung Wan district.
Although Sato now splits his time between Hong Kong and Tokyo, Censu Tokyo has been a true homecoming for executive chef and co-owner Fumiyuki Kinsu, Sato’s former right hand in Hong Kong.
On a recent evening, I sample the three-glass wine pairing along with the 12-course chef’s tasting menu. At izakaya, starting with bubbles — specifically, a cold draft beer — is customary, but Konatsu puts a twist on this tradition with a glass of Domaine Gross Prelude 2020, a natural Cremant from Alsace. Crisp and refreshing with apple and citrus on the nose, the sparkler has enough body to pair with appetizers that range from palm-sized raw oysters drizzled with sanbaizu (a dressing of rice vinegar and soy sauce) to katsuo tataki (seared, rare bonito) sprinkled with marinated red onions and served with a smoky eggplant sauce.
Giandon Il Farneto 2019, a Malvasia-based orange wine from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, is a match for much of what’s on offer at Censu: the “Shine Muscat caprese” made with salty Cremet d’Anjou whipped cheese and lemon oil; gnocchi tossed with fresh porcini mushrooms from Hokkaido; and prawn toast with spicy aioli and bonito flakes — a riff on the dim sum classic but inspired by savory okonomiyaki pancakes.
“Our menu is seafood-focused, so we serve a lot white and orange wines, but we like to include a little bit of red in the pairing courses,” Konatsu says, pouring me a glass of purple-hued Pierre-Henri Cosyns Le Fute Coutes de Bourg 2019.
The sulfite-free Malbec blend complements the earthy notes in the grand finale: a dish of grilled steak and mushrooms with smoked seaweed soy glaze.
While the menu straddles casual and fine dining, Censu also offers a la carte options and welcomes walk-ins who come for a drink, a bite and a chat — just like your friendly, neighborhood izakaya.
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