Food & Drink | TOKYO FOOD FILE

At his superb new patisserie, Yuicihi Goto is without equal

by Robbie Swinnerton

Contributing Writer

Nishihara is not a neighborhood renowned for fine dining. But since September, it has been drawing a growing number of gourmets to its humble suburban shōtengai (shopping street). Their destination: one of the smallest but classiest new pastry shops in the city.

Called Equal, this is the latest project by master patissier Yuichi Goto. Best-known as co-owner of the ever-excellent Path in nearby Tomigaya, his illustrious resume includes spells at the three-star Restaurant Troisgros in France, and then at Sugalabo in Tokyo’s Kamiyacho.

So far, Goto is only offering two products at his bijou boutique but both are outstanding. One is a superb, creamy cheesecake encased in the most delicate of crusts.

The other is his signature confection, cream puffs — or choux a la creme, to give them their proper French terminology. These golden-brown orbs of crisp pastry filled with meltingly soft confectioners cream have just the right balance: sweet, but not cloying in the slightest. Don’t stint yourself; buy a three-pack. But accept that they may not make it home.

Equal has no room inside to sit and eat these jewels. Instead, head around the corner to Paddlers Coffee for a takeout latte or Americano. Then sit outside in the autumn sunshine and indulge.

Cream puffs ¥850 (three pieces), cheesecake ¥550 (both take-out only); little English spoken

In line with the nationwide state of emergency declared on April 16, the government is strongly requesting that residents stay at home whenever possible and refrain from visiting bars, restaurants, music venues and other public spaces.
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