What a difference a few hundred meters makes. One minute you're milling through the manic frazzle of central Shibuya; a short stroll later you find yourself in tranquil, low-rise, neon-free Shinsen, where life is slower and the restaurants cozy and intimate.

Few capture that neighborhood feel better than Hiyori. Looking in from street level, you can tell that it's easygoing and convivial, the sort of place where you drop in for a quick drink, strike up conversation with your neighbors and end up staying the rest of the evening.

Like so many similar spots around Tokyo, the layout is simple and compact, just a few small tables at the back plus a small counter overlooking a tiny open kitchen that is the ultimate definition of cramped. That's where you'll find chef Kiyoto Mochizuki at work.