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Suzuran: A favorite ramen shop relocates and evolves

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Suzuran has moved. After over a decade building up a large and loyal following, Shibuya’s classiest ramen shop has shuttered its old wood-clad premises behind the police station and found itself a smart new home — down the road in Ebisu.

Following a soft launch last month, the new Suzuran formally opened its doors two weeks ago. And it’s clear this is more than just a change of address: It is an evolution. The furnishings are plusher — note the bamboo trim on the countertop — and the noodles even more elegant than before.

The basic ramen — ask for chūka-men — is a fine, delicate noodle bathed in an almost clear broth lightly seasoned with shoyu and served in stylish wide white bowls. Ditto with the chunkier tsukemen dipping noodles. The dip, also shoyu-based, is lighter now, and gone is the cabbage/beansprout mix that used to make them so hearty. But the kakuni pork belly is as good and satisfying as ever.

The new Suzuran is just a minute’s walk from Ebisu Station, on the right side of Komazawa-dori, just after the first lights as you head toward the Shibuya-bashi Crossing.

1-7-12 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo; 03-3499-0434; open 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and 6-11 p.m.; closed Sun.; nearest station Ebisu; no smoking; noodles from ¥950; credit cards not accepted; no English menu; English not spoken.