Pines belong to the traditional Japanese landscape, as olive trees belong to the Mediterranean.

The people of these islands have always admired them for their graceful shape and appreciated the wood for its many uses. Pines dotting sandy beaches or thriving on sunny, low hills were images fixed in the Japanese mind until, in the 1970s, the ravages of the matsunozai senchu (pine weevil) robbed the scenery of so many.

Large, old pines, standing alone or soaring above other trees, were traditionally revered as passageways through which deities descended from heaven. With branches hanging downward, their umbrellalike form symbolized the celestial realm, and in bygone times, villagers gathered under them to dine, sing and dance together. Often, the tree itself became an object of worship.

In China, too, pines were esteemed as symbols of immortality. Taoist teachings encouraged ascetic monks to eat pine needles, cones and resin to acquire the immortal life force of the tree. In addition, the triumvirate of pine, bamboo and plum were commonly extolled as the "three best friends of winter" because of their vigor in even the harshest months.

Back on this side of the Sea of Japan, in the 11th century, people began to make humble ornaments of pine seedlings, which they placed at the entrance to their dwellings to guide the god of the new year into the household. In the Kamakura Period (1192-1333), this originally modest practice of commoners was adopted by the warrior class, who made the decoration more elaborate by adding bamboo and plum. Set up in pairs, these kadomatsu (gate pines) are nowadays usually installed at the front of houses during the first week of January.

The aesthetic choices of the warrior class had another direct influence on the pines of Japan. Of the two common species found here, it was the kuro-matsu (black pine, Pinus Thunbergii), with its deeply fissured, dark-gray bark and thick, stiff needles, that they preferred over the brick-red bark and slender needles of the aka-matsu (red pine, P. densiflora). Considering black pines to be more dignified and evocative of rugged islands and coasts, this dominant class saw to it that they were planted in abundance in and around their castles and gardens. In Tokyo, the Imperial Palace and Hama-rikyu Garden are both good places to see fine black pines.

As you approach the entrance of Hama-rikyu Garden (not far from Tsukiji Fish Market in Chuo Ward), you will notice immediately that the stone-buttressed walls evoke the atmosphere of the Imperial Palace. In fact, a classical roofed castle gate once stood there, too, until 1923, when it was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake. As the site of the former beachside (hama) villa of the Tokugawa shoguns, the garden's history contains many colorful anecdotes.

Upon entering, first make a short detour left to view a majestic black pine that was planted in 1704 when the garden was remodeled in celebration of its owner's succession to the throne as the sixth shogun, Ienobu. Surviving three turbulent centuries since then, the old pine stands wistfully, its green leaves somewhat faded due to age, but the gnarled trunk and boughs displaying an amazing vigor.

Keeping the pine behind you, cross the turfed ground dotted with more pines, three of which are dressed with yukitsuri (straw ropes), which were originally used to deflect the weight of fallen snow on their branches but nowadays are more of a winter decoration. The open area around here became an experimental farm for the eighth shogun Yoshimune to test the cultivation of new crops and herbs. He even kept an elephant from Vietnam for 12 years from 1729. In the Meiji Era (1868-1912), the farm became the site of the first Western-style stone building, where the emperor entertained foreign dignitaries. The lawn now draws people to see irises in summer and spider lilies in autumn.

At a large signboard ahead, turn left and then right to reach the Shioiri-no Ike, a tidal pond fed by seawater that is the only remaining example of many such ponds created in the Edo Period. The wonderful open view over the pond was boundless before the surrounding high rises intruded. No doubt this was the secret ingredient that captured the hearts of generations of shogun seeking relief from the fettering, stiff formalities of life at Edo Castle.

As you walk across the bridge toward the elegant house on stilts in the center of the pond, pause halfway across to look back, where another bridge in the distance spans a mysterious bay shadowed by thick foliage, with black pines in the foreground accentuating the scenery. At the other end of the zigzag bridge, go left to reach a small mound of earth with a nice view from the top. Black pines around here are trained rather excessively as if for a pruning competition.

The fenced area beyond the mound is one of the two falconry yards in the garden. The pursuit was a great favorite of the 11th shogun, Ienari, but the area is now a bird sanctuary. Passing by a few small embankments used as blinds in duck-shooting, you arrive at the gate used to take in water from Tokyo Bay. Farther ahead along the waterside, notice a small wharf that was built as a landing for the shogun when he took a boat from Edo Castle. In the turmoil preceding the Meiji Restoration, after the last shogun, Yoshinobu, was defeated in battle with the Satsuma-Choshu coalition army in Kyoto, he fled in the dead of night on Jan. 6, 1868, boarded his warship from Osaka Bay and arrived at this landing in Hama-rikyu on Jan. 12. But fortune never reversed in his favor, and in April that year he eventually surrendered his castle to the emperor.

Not a hint of the poignant history remains for the passengers who line up at the nearby boat station to cruise up the Sumida. From here, follow the sign to the exit, or enjoy the garden longer.

Those in Tokyo for New Year's should not miss the garden's special event on Jan. 1 and 2, including a rare demonstration of traditional falconry (at 10:30 a.m. and 2 p.m., weather permitting) as well as free sake from kegs. Ceremonial tea is also served for a small fee.