Two types of pilgrim come to Matsuyama in Shikoku's northeasterly Ehime Prefecture: Buddhists and bathers.
The former will be more than halfway through the circuit of 88 temples devised by Kobo Daishi (774-835), founder of Japan's esoteric Shingon Buddhist sect, for the remission of mankind's 88 sinful desires. The latter know a faster way to mortal happiness -- a soak in the waters of Matsuyama's Dogo Onsen.
The bath actually claims to be older than Buddhism itself. The founding legend holds that 3,000 years ago, in the mythical "Age of the Gods," a white heron bathed its injured leg in the hot spring and was instantly cured.