Sanjo's shotengai (shopping arcade) has long been a poor relative of Nishiki Ichiba, the overcrowded shopping arcade of downtown Kyoto. Go a bit west, however, and you'll discover the Sanjo arcade, where you won't have to fight through crowds and there's everything from secondhand shops to kissaten (traditional coffee shops) dating back half a century. While you're there, why not stop by Usaya, a cozy family-run restaurant serving homely Japanese cooking.