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May 11, 2024
 

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RESTAURANTS

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 16, 2001
Caffe Aromatica: The sweet smell of distinction
There's nothing new under the sun -- at least it often seems that way at Italian restaurants in Tokyo. This is not to deny that we are blessed with plenty of excellent cucina, just that too many of the places serving it look and feel like clones.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 9, 2001
Mardi Gras: Ample reason to celebrate
Over the last couple of years, one of our favorite watering holes in Ginza has been the curiously named (and hard to find) Grape Gumbo, a down-to-earth wine bar with a no-frills, izakaya ambience and Euro-bistro trencherman fare to match. So when we heard that the head chef there, Touru Wachi, had left to set up his own operation, our ears pricked up in happy anticipation.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 2, 2001
Restaurant J: Food that gladdens the heart of man
Restaurant J has been open for more than a year, so there's absolutely no reason for the Food File to wait any longer to bestow its seal of approval. But we're still reluctant to give it the unconditional thumbs-up it so richly deserves. Why so? It's the same old story: We're always loath to spread the word about the places we like best.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 18, 2001
Good Moon: Fusion that waxes and wanes
There's a whole generation out there who have come of age with laid-back, low-priced, modern izakaya, where they feel just as comfortable washing down the oden with wine as they do quaffing shochu with pasta. So when these kids grow up a bit and want to hang out somewhere less boisterous and more adult, where are they supposed to go?
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 11, 2001
Kanetanaka-So: Modern kaiseki set on the right course
These are not the best of times for Tokyo's ryotei, those rarefied houses of inconspicuous consumption, whose prime purpose is as venues for wining and dining, mutual back-scratching and political intrigue. With captains of industry cutting back on expense accounts, and Nagata-cho's mandarins under increasing public scrutiny, patronage is on a downward slope.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 4, 2001
Sushi that fits the bill in attitude and price
Shinbotchi's take on the ancient art of sushi is much the same approach that the rag trade of back-street Harajuku adopts toward the world of fashion.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 28, 2001
Isola blu: The upper crust of Ginza
Our appreciation of Isola's superb pizza is already a matter of record: "A work of art . . . As close to perfection as you will ever need to get," we said -- and we have no reason to revise our opinion. When it comes to the location, though, the Food File is far less effusive. Isola is such a long haul from the nearest station that only the already-thrice-blessed who live in leafy Shirokanedai are positioned to enjoy it to the fullest.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 21, 2001
Autumn's harvest among the bamboo
Autumn is here, the season of antipasti misti and fruitful mellowness. It's also the time of year, of course, for bountiful supplies of mushrooms and other miscellaneous fungi known collectively as kinoko -- like the excellent assortment we enjoyed the other day at Aburiya, an atmospheric dining bar just off Aoyama-dori.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 14, 2001
The bistro jazzed up to perfection
It's a hard job, as they say -- not that we're complaining. But if there is a down side, it's that the Food File's constant, restless search for new foraging grounds makes it nigh on impossible for us to revisit any of our great new discoveries, let alone keep tabs on all those tried-and-true, all-time favorites.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 7, 2001
Rinkaen: Those were the days . . .
There are several excellent reasons why we can recommend a visit to Rinkaen. Unfortunately -- and this is exceptional for the Food File -- few of them concern the act of eating. Nevertheless, this wonderful old place still qualifies (conditionally) as a classic of its kind.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 30, 2001
Oh, to spoon under the silvery moon
The harvest moon is upon us, and where better for viewing it (God and the elements willing) than the terrace at Tsuki no Niwa, the aptly named "Garden of the Moon." Not only is it a marvelous setting, it's hard to believe it's in the heart of Minato Ward.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 23, 2001
Arossa: Best cellars Down Under
When a recent cover feature in a heavyweight U.S. weekly magazine assures us that New World vintages -- especially those from Down Under -- are giving the French (and Californians) a run for their money, then it's safe to say that Australian wine has arrived. But we in Tokyo have known that for a long time.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 16, 2001
Give my compliments to the chef
There are many -- the Food File included -- who believe that Kazuhiko Kinoshita produces the finest, value-for-money French food in all of Tokyo, and probably the whole of Japan. So how can it be that he and his bistro-style restaurant remain so little spoken about by the general populace, or at least those who pride themselves on eating well?
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 9, 2001
Adan: A hidden tropical paradise
The chances of discovering Adan by accident are about as great as seeing snow in Okinawa -- in summer. It lies in anonymous residential territory in an unprepossessing quadrant of darkest Mita, well away from the regular foraging trails of mainstream Minato Ward. But even if you were to stumble unaided upon Adan's funky frontage of dark, rough-hewn wood, it is highly unlikely you would find yourself a seat.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 19, 2001
Kao Tai: Getting down to the Thai essentials
You don't have to go far in Tokyo for good Thai restaurants these days. But when it comes to tracking down no-frills, down-home cooking -- the kind of simple snacks prepared by countless market stalls and sidewalk eateries in Bangkok -- then it pays to dig deep. Some of the best Thai street food is served below ground level.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 12, 2001
The life of spice in the big city
Our column last month on looking for laksa in Tokyo generated a good number of comments and recommendations. One correspondent felt we had not properly pointed out that these spicy noodles are also hugely popular in Singapore, not just in Malaysia. It was certainly not our intention to ignore or slight the people or excellent food of that mighty little city-state -- it's just that we were not aware of any restaurants in Tokyo that represented its complex cuisine.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 5, 2001
A trattoria that's simply delizioso
Delizioso Italia is a pretty unimaginative (and possibly ungrammatical) name for a restaurant. But there's very little else that feels out of place here. It's not a clone of the cheap-chic Capricciosa concept but a fine and friendly trattoria that turns out some highly enjoyable cucina.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 29, 2001
Hong Hu Asian: The cafe of Asian delights
The idea of the Asian-themed izakaya, complete with basic hawker food and crass giant Buddhas, has been with us for several years now. But Hong Hu is surely the first place in Tokyo to reinterpret Southeast Asian street food in the guise of a sidewalk cafe-bistro.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 22, 2001
A many-splendored world of tofu
Tofu is cooling, tofu is healthy and, best of all, tofu is cheap. And suddenly this sultry summer season, tofu is also totally trendy. Just like Shigezo Syoutou, in fact. Such is its popularity, it took us three attempts to snare a reservation at this laid-back basement dining-bar, despite the location way out past the bright lights of Shibuya.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 15, 2001
For those about to tapa . . .
In Spain tapas are much more than just food, they're a way of life. There's even a verb -- to "tapa," as it were -- to describe the act of progressing from one tapas bar to another until the wee hours, balancing your intake of alcohol with a succession of light snacks -- always standing up, of course.
How the discovery of a giant sword in Nara offers clues into ancient Japan
Archaeologists say a 1,600-year-old wooden coffin at the Tomio Maruyama tumulus in the city of Nara was kept in good condition probably because it was protected by a layer of clay and copper ions that had seeped out of the mirrors that were buried together.
Japan bread recalled after rat parts found inside packs
Pasco Shikishima has recalled 104,000 packs of its white Chojuku bread after parts of a rat's body were discovered in two of them.
What we know so far about the case of the burned couple in Tochigi
Flowers are laid on the bank of a river in Nasu, Tochigi Prefecture, where the charred bodies of a Tokyo couple were found last month.
Japanese students' English proficiency is improving
An education ministry survey has shown that the English proficiency of public junior and senior high school students in Japan is continuing to improve.
Is Modi’s party heading for a stunning election loss?
Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi's campaign tactics have escalated, including anti-Muslim rhetoric and fearmongering, reflecting his ruling party's desperation.
Japan's logistics firms seek partnerships to cope with driver shortage
Japan Post CEO Tetsuya Senda (right) and his Seino Transportation counterpart Satoshi Takahashi announce their companies' agreement on joint long-haul truck operations, in Tokyo on Thursday.
How the discovery of a giant sword in Nara offers clues into ancient Japan
Archaeologists say a 1,600-year-old wooden coffin at the Tomio Maruyama tumulus in the city of Nara was kept in good condition probably because it was protected by a layer of clay and copper ions that had seeped out of the mirrors that were buried together.
Unlike 10 years ago, Japan's new security bill sparks little debate
The Lower House starts discussing a security clearance bill on April 19 in Tokyo.
Japan’s tween skateboarders get head start on preparations for 2028 Olympics
Ibuki Matsumoto competes at an event in Osaka on April 21.
Will Australia’s next frigates come from Japan?
The Mogami-class frigate, which features stealth capabilities and is operated by Japan's Maritime Self-Defence Force, falls within the very broad guidelines of what is being sought by Canberra.

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