The first thing you see as you enter The Oak Door is the bar, surrounded on three sides by sleek, glass-fronted wine racks packed with boutique New World wines. The second thing that grabs your eye is the warm, flickering glow emanating from the bank of wood-fired ovens by the kitchen, and the white-clad chefs carefully tending the cuts of meat cooking inside.
The visual message is simple and direct. The Oak Door, in Roppongi's Grand Hyatt Hotel, does steak and wine, but with a sense of poise and sophistication you will find nowhere else in town.
You come here for power eating. The menu offers eight different cuts of beef, ranging from a basic half-pound of New Zealand tenderloin or 10 ounces (283 grams) of U.S. Angus sirloin to 22-oz (625-gram) porterhouse steaks of prime Japanese wagyu (for two, they recommend). There's veal, lamb and pork, too, not to mention lobster and assorted fish -- plus chicken or duck from the rotisserie. Potatoes are optional. Dr. Atkins would most definitely approve.