Review excerpt: The fare at Kawahara is kaiseki, the traditional multi-course meal, but it is different: For every course over this long lunch, Kawahara does something that’s either thrilling, or mad.

Review excerpt: As Bistro de Yoshimoto's name suggests, and as the nonstop soundtrack of accordion music makes abundantly clear, the setting and the fare is undeniably French.

Review excerpt: The okonomiyaki at Kiji is humble — there is none of the giant pizza-sized servings currently in vogue at other establishments. Kiji is also modest with the mayonnaise.

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