Chinese travelers throng the bazaars of old Kashgar, munching mutton kebabs and soaking up heavily commercialized Uyghur culture — part of a government push to remold the troubled Xinjiang region into a tourist paradise.

Kashgar, an ancient Silk Road oasis, was more recently on the front lines of Beijing's sweeping anti-terrorism campaign in the northwestern region.

The city's outskirts are still pockmarked with facilities that the ruling Communist Party once called vocational schools but Western researchers describe as extralegal detention camps for Muslims — with the United States linking them to policies of "genocide."