NAHA, Okinawa Pref. — It was almost a religious moment for "awamori" aficionados.

Workers spoke in hushed tones as the heady and sweet aroma of black yeast and Thai rice mash filled the room, and bystanders fidgeted in anticipation.

The verdict came from one white-haired man, crouching in front of a gauge where drops of the distilled liquor were collecting.