There’s no doubt that summer is getting longer. The Japanese, who have long prided themselves on having four distinct 季節 (kisetsu, seasons), have been asking themselves of late, 四季がなくなり「二季」になっていくのだろうか？ (Shiki ga nakunari “niki” ni natte-iku no darō ka?, Will the four seasons disappear and just become “two seasons”?)

One thing that shouldn't change, though, is 秋分の日 (shūbun no hi, Autumnal Equinox Day), which this year takes place on Sept. 23. It marks the point at which 太陽 (taiyō, the sun) is directly over 赤道 (sekidō, the equator).

秋分の日は昼と夜の長さがほぼ同じになる日です (Shūbun no hi wa hiru to yoru no nagasa ga hobo onaji ni naru hi desu, Autumnal Equinox Day is the day where day and night are almost equal). From that day forward, 夜が少しずつ長くなっていきます (yoru ga sukoshizutsu nagaku natte-ikimasu, the nights get longer little by little).

So it is officially 秋 (aki, autumn) next week, and thus we should be greeting each other with phrases like, 朝晩が涼しくなってきましたね (Asaban ga suzushiku natte-kimashita ne, It’s getting cooler in the mornings and evenings). Alas, I’m still seeing high temperatures.

Of course, I’m thinking with a Tokyo mindset. There are many areas north of the capital where the 湿気 (shikke, humidity) has indeed dissipated and been replaced by cool, crisp air. 例えば、北海道ではすでに秋らしくなってきました (Tatoeba, Hokkaido dewa sudeni aki rashiku natte-kimashita, For example, in Hokkaido autumn has already begun to appear).

秋分の日 was not always called by this name. Before World War II, it was known as 秋季皇霊祭 (shūki kōreisai, the Autumn Imperial Spirit Festival), a day in Shinto dedicated to honoring the spirits of past emperors and imperial family members.

The postwar reforms of 1948 saw the occasion renamed to 秋分の日 and it became a day for 祖先を敬い、なくなった人々をしのぶ (sosen o uyamai, nakunatta hito-bito o shinobu, honoring ancestors and remembering those who have passed away). From then on, many families made it a habit to partake in お墓参り (o-haka mairi, grave visitation) — a practice in which they wash family gravestones, light incense, pray and leave お供え物 (o-sonaemono, offerings) like the autumnal treat おはぎ (o-hagi, sweet rice cakes with red bean paste).

先日、外国人観光客がお供え物のお酒を飲むなどの「墓荒らし」をして、日本人が激怒しています (Senjitsu, gaikokujin kankōkyaku ga o-sonaemono no o-sake o nomu nado no “haka-arashi” o shite, Nihonjin ga gekido shite-imasu, Recently, an overseas tourist committed “grave desecration” after drinking some alcohol offerings, and Japanese people were furious). The お供え物 are considered 神聖な物 (shinseina mono, sacred gifts) and you should never tamper with them.

As you may have noticed above, Japanese grammar has two convenient verb constructions that we can use to express gradual change: ～てくる (~te kuru, to change toward the present) and ～ていく (~te iku, to change toward the future).

Both are formed by adding either くる (kuru, to come) or いく (iku, to go) to the te-form of another verb or adjective. The verb なる (naru, to become) is frequently used in conjunction with these endings.

Since the changes these endings describe tend to be slow and gradual, it’s a construction you’ll often hear during discussions about the weather or the seasons — the most common being 雨が降ってきた (ame ga futte-kita), which literally means “the rain has come to fall” but more naturally translates as “it’s starting to rain.”

Another autumn-specific phrase using the construction is 空が高くなってきました (sora ga takaku natte-kimashita), which literally means “the sky is getting higher” but refers to the idea that the oppressive 湿気 has lessened and it’s easier to see long distances.

Other less cryptic phrases include, 日差しが柔らかくなってきました (hizashi ga yawarakaku natte-kimashita, the sunlight is getting softer), 虫の声が増えてきました (mushi no koe ga fuete-kimashita, the sound of insects is increasing) and 気温はこの先も下がっていくでしょう (kion wa kono saki mo sagatte-iku deshō, it seems the temperature will continue to drop).

The actual arrival of 秋 may depend more on 台風 (taifū, typhoons). 近年、暑さが長引いて秋らしくなるのが遅くなってきました (Kinnen, atsusa ga nagabiite aki rashiku naru no ga osoku natte-kimashita, Recently, the heat has lingered and the arrival of autumn has been delayed). When a 台風 passes, though, it usually brings autumnal weather.

From the end of summer to early autumn, several 台風 pass over the Japanese archipelago. 台風が過ぎたら秋晴れになるでしょう (Taifū ga sugitara akibare ni naru deshō, Once the typhoon passes, it should become a clear autumn day) — the humidity drops, the wind feels 爽やか (sawayaka, lighter/ crisper). With each passing storm, 秋らしさが増していきます。 (aki rashisa ga mashite ikimasu, the feeling of autumn grows more distinct).

Traditionally, once 秋分の日 and 台風 have passed, 季節は本格的に深まっていきます (kisetsu wa honkaku-teki ni fukamatte-ikimasu, the season will truly deepen). It’s the perfect time for hiking, camping and taking walks before things get 肌寒い (hadazamui/ hadasamui, chilly).

There’s a saying in Japan that goes, 暑さ寒さも彼岸まで (Atsusa samusa mo higan made, The heat and cold last only until the equinox). Whether it’s emerging from the heat of the summer or the bitter cold of winter, 秋分の日 and its spring counterpart, 春分の日 (shunbun no hi, the Vernal Equinox), are easily many people’s favorite time of the year.

Reading practice

Have a look at the passage below and try to make sense of it from the Japanese script alone:

９月２３日は秋分の日です。秋分の日には昼と夜の長さが同じになります。秋分の日を過ぎると、だんだん日が短くなっていきます。秋分の日の前後は「お彼岸」と呼ばれています。多くの日本人はおはぎを持ってお墓参りに行き、先祖を敬います。また、この頃から「秋の味覚」と言って、スーパーやお店には秋にとれる魚や野菜が並びます。魚屋の前では秋刀魚を焼いていることがあります。秋刀魚の煙は高くのぼっていきます。また栗や松茸も旬です。栗をお米と炊き込むと栗ご飯になり、炊飯器で簡単にできます。家の中に栗の香りが広がっていきます。松茸は近年とても高くなったので、なかなか手に入らないかもしれませんが、土瓶蒸しにするとおいしいです。機会があったらぜひ味わってください。

Key Vocabulary for the passage above:

  • 敬う (uyamau, to respect)
  • 並ぶ (narabu, to line up)
  • 旬 (shun, in season)
  • 炊飯器 (suihanki, rice cooker)
  • 香り (kaori, fragrance)
  • 味わう (ajiwau, to savor, to taste)
  • 土瓶蒸し (dobinmushi, teapot broth with mushrooms)