The transportive nature of cooking takes everyone by surprise. A taste or smell and unbidden we’re whisked to foregone times and faraway places.

I spend more time than I should tinkering with comfort foods to re-create childhood contentments. A well-remembered recipe can connect me to places I have already been, but it’s just as important for us to cook for where we wish we could be.

So, where would you like to gastronomically vacation? Southern hemisphere seasons are reversed, and as a New Zealander in Hokkaido I can’t help but crave the fresh fruits that bend boughs and fill farmers markets at this time of year.