At Sincere Blue, a restaurant inside the newly opened Jingumae Comichi dining complex, dinner unfolds like an edible ode to the bounty of the sea.

An opening salvo of raw albacore tuna, rolled into cornets atop whipped celeriac, is followed in quick succession by a delectable array of piscine-focused plates. There’s a basket of golden beignets made with pangasius (a freshwater fish from Southeast Asia), oysters sauteed in brown butter and scallop croquettes served on a bed of dried nori (seaweed). They serve as a prelude to the main dish — a fish-shaped savory waffle stuffed with sea bass, swimming in a pool of clam-infused cream sauce.

Seafood sustainability is central to the restaurant’s concept, and owner-chef Shinsuke Ishii takes great care when sourcing ingredients. The tuna is certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), a global nonprofit organization that sets standards for sustainable fishing, while the oysters, scallops and pangasius are approved by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC), which establishes best-practice protocols on farmed seafood. The sea bass comes from purveyors working with scientists and nongovernmental organizations to improve fishing practices.