Late summer is always a fallow season for dining out in Tokyo. The lingering heat still smothers the city and its residents' appetites, while the bounty of autumn lies too far ahead to generate any great excitement. But that makes it a good time to stop and take stock of where we stand in Year One of COVID-19.
Even though little about the future remains certain, Tokyo’s restaurants are mostly still hanging in there, albeit with reduced clienteles and belts pulled in tight. Nonetheless, there have been several high-profile casualties. One of the first was Mimiu, the refined Osaka-based udon noodle chain, which shuttered all six of its Tokyo area branches in May, although its operations in Kansai continue.
A month later, Heinz Beck abruptly announced its departure from its plush Marunouchi premises overlooking the palace moat. Its high-end, Michelin-starred modern Italian fine dining will be missed, as will the excellent, casual cucina served by its ground-floor sibling, Sensi.