Standing amid rows of metal-bound barrels in a vineyard, Chen Chien-hao holds up a glass of wine to scrutinize its golden hue.
Well may the bespectacled 52-year-old cheer after the red and white wines he helped develop in central Taiwan took gold medals at a prestigious competition in Paris this year.
"I'm initiating a revolution called the Taiwan wine spirit renaissance," Chen said, describing his efforts to rejuvenate a tradition that has nearly died out on the sub-tropical island.